“99% natural origin”, “natural”, “organic”, “COSMOS certified”… These claims appear regularly on cosmetic products, but they do not all mean the same thing.
At Pioupiou, we pay special attention to the origin of the ingredients that make up our skincare products. But rather than considering a percentage as a promise in itself, it is important to understand what it actually means.
So, what is a natural-origin ingredient? What is the difference from an organic ingredient? And what does a certification like COSMOS ORGANIC guarantee?
What is a natural-origin ingredient?
A natural-origin ingredient initially comes from nature: it can notably be derived from the plant or mineral world, or, depending on the standards, from other natural sources.
Some ingredients are used with relatively little processing, such as certain vegetable oils. Others must be processed to perform a specific function in a cosmetic formula: emulsifying a cream, stabilizing a formula, cleansing the skin, or ensuring proper preservation.
This is why “natural origin” does not necessarily mean “used as is after being extracted from nature.”
Natural and natural-origin: are they the same thing?
Not exactly.
A natural ingredient is obtained from natural materials according to processes defined by the standard used.
A natural-origin ingredient, for its part, may have undergone more processing while retaining a natural origin recognized according to the standard's criteria.
This distinction allows for the formulation of cosmetics that combine plant or mineral raw materials with functional ingredients necessary for the texture, stability, or use of the product.
How is the percentage of natural origin in a cosmetic calculated?
The percentage displayed on a product does not simply correspond to the number of natural ingredients present in its INCI list.
It is a calculation performed on the product's composition and the contribution of each raw material to its natural origin.
In the COSMOS standard, for example, the percentage of natural origin of the finished product is calculated based on the total weight of the formula, taking into account ingredients of non-natural origin as well as any petrochemical fractions defined by the standard.
Two ingredients with complex names in an INCI list can therefore perfectly well be of natural origin: the INCI name of an ingredient does not, on its own, allow you to determine its origin.
Is a natural-origin cosmetic necessarily organic?
No. This is an important distinction.
Natural origin and organic origin are two different concepts.
An ingredient can be of natural origin without being derived from organic farming. A vegetable oil, for example, can come from a plant grown according to organic farming rules or from conventional farming.
Similarly, a cosmetic containing a very high proportion of natural-origin ingredients is not automatically an organic cosmetic.
To be able to claim an organic certification such as COSMOS ORGANIC, the product must meet additional criteria defined by the standard.
What does COSMOS ORGANIC mean?
COSMOS is an international standard dedicated to natural and organic cosmetics.
It is not only interested in the percentage of natural origin of a formula. The standard also regulates the origin and processing of ingredients, the composition of the finished product, certain aspects of manufacturing and packaging, as well as labeling and product control.
Two levels are notably used for finished cosmetic products:
COSMOS NATURAL designates products that comply with the COSMOS standard without reaching the minimum proportions of organic ingredients required for organic certification.
COSMOS ORGANIC designates products that comply with the standard and also meet the requirements regarding their organic content.
For the majority of COSMOS ORGANIC products, at least 20% of the finished product must be organic. Certain categories, notably some rinse-off products or those containing a large proportion of water or minerals, benefit from specific rules.
Thus, a product can be composed almost entirely of natural-origin ingredients without being certified organic.
Why isn't a cosmetic always 100% of natural origin?
A very high number might seem preferable at first glance. However, the percentage of natural origin should never be considered in isolation.
A cosmetic formula must also be stable, safe, and suitable for its intended use throughout its shelf life.
Depending on the type of product, some ingredients are used in very small quantities to perform a particular function, such as preservation or formula stability.
The COSMOS standard itself authorizes certain ingredients of non-natural origin precisely when they are necessary and no effective natural alternative can perform the function concerned under the conditions provided by the standard.
The goal of good formulation is therefore not simply to reach the highest possible number, but to find a balance between the origin of ingredients, formula effectiveness, tolerance, stability, and safety.
How do you recognize a natural or organic cosmetic?
A few reflexes can help you better understand what you are buying:
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look at the percentage of natural-origin ingredients when indicated;
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distinguish this percentage from the percentage of organic ingredients;
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look for a recognized certification when an organic or natural certification is claimed;
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consult the INCI list, while keeping in mind that a complex name is not synonymous with a synthetic ingredient;
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favor brands that clearly explain their formulation choices rather than limiting themselves to a succession of marketing buzzwords.
And at Pioupiou?
We develop our skincare products by favoring formulas with a very high proportion of natural-origin ingredients and ingredients selected for their function and suitability for the sensitive skin of babies, children, and mothers.
Depending on the product, we notably use vegetable oils and butters, plant extracts, and other functional ingredients necessary for the formulation.
Several of our skincare products are also certified organic according to the COSMOS ORGANIC standard.
For us, however, naturalness is not an end in itself. When a skincare product is intended for sensitive skin — and especially for that of a baby or young child — the quality of a formula rests on a set of criteria: the choice of ingredients, their concentration, the tolerance of the formula, its stability, and its intended use.
This is the balance we seek in the development of every Pioupiou skincare product.
Our skincare products are also developed and manufactured in Switzerland. Discover what Swiss Made really means for a cosmetic.
Natural, organic, COSMOS: what you need to remember
Natural origin describes the origin of ingredients according to defined calculation rules.
Organic indicates that a portion of the ingredients meets the requirements of organic farming.
COSMOS ORGANIC goes further: the certification requires compliance with a standard covering notably the ingredients, their processing, the product composition, manufacturing, and labeling.
A high percentage of natural origin is therefore interesting information, but it never tells the whole story of a cosmetic on its own.
To choose a skincare product, it is better to consider the formula as a whole and the needs of the skin for which it is intended.